With half of my family’s roots reaching deep into the stovetop-hot soil of Maricopa County, I thought I had a pretty good grasp of The Grand Canyon State’s offerings. Timing constraints and timeshare availability prompted the kiddos and me to give Sedona a go, and this high-desert oasis of mystical repute was an eye-opener and jaw-dropper in a long list of ways.
WHAT WE REALLY LIKED
- The Drive. Heading south from Flagstaff, take 89-A instead of I-17.
- West Fork Trail. This vaulted immediately into our top ten favorite hikes. And it’s not so much a hike as it is a six-mile (out and back) saunter along and through — and through, again and again — Oak Creek. So shady and lush, that you’ll think you’re in a red-rock nook of Oregon. So pleasant, that its anticlimactic turnaround point is more likely to elicit, “Goodie, now we get to do all of it again, only backwards!” than, “Is that it?”
- Biking Chuck Wagon, Mescal & Canyon of Fools. Any time you see “recommended direction of travel —>” on a trail map, chances are it’ll be a good ride. We rode the Chuck Wagon and spectacularly scenic Mescal combo-loop counterclockwise, and dumped out into Canyon of Fools. No matter how many rides remain in our future (and there will be many), it’s certain that will remain one of the most memorable. And not because it’s the closest we’ve come to serious dehydration, either.
- Tortas de Fuego. Speaking of top tens, we’ve eaten some muy rica Mexican food, and this ranks right up there. Proof: My young bucks cleared their entire, overloaded plates without any prompting from me. Plus, they were initiated into the ways of real Mexican Coca-Cola, hitherto proscribed by their mom, who at that moment was not available for dietary guidance.
- City of Sedona Bike Skills Park. This has got to be one of the best municipal (= free) bike parks in the country, with courses for riders of all abilities. It could be the most picturesque, as well.
- Slide Rock State Park. Popular for a reason. Be careful.
- Tlaquepaque Arts Mall. Yes, this crafts-heavy outdoor mall is hand-crafted for tourists, but even if you don’t especially enjoy shopping, it’s hard not to enjoy wandering around. Something — something — here is sure to delight you.
- Picazzo. Jim Gaffigan says that kale seems to be everywhere, including places where it shouldn’t be, which is most places. But it definitely needed to be in the chia kale pesto salad here.
- Cathedral Rock. Timing is everything, and whereas this geologic feature might otherwise be merely “nice,” it was especially dramatic when we were caught at its base in a torrential cloudburst.
- Snoopy Rock. Cute.
- Vibe Purveyors. Note the variety and creativity of the enterprising merchants capitalizing on the “earth energy” that reputedly “radiates” from four spots in and around town.
- People. Everyone we encountered seemed to be especially friendly, and not in a “the more I smile, the more you’re likely to spend” way. Must be the vortex. Or vortices, rather.
- Nature’s Gifts. Hope for brilliant sunsets and nightly thunderstorms.
WHAT WAS JUST OK
- Fry Canyon. Scenic, sure, but West Fork spoiled us.
- Picazzo. Everything not called “chia kale pesto salad.” But they were open late on the late night of our arrival, and it sure beat 7-Eleven nachos.
- Chimney Rock Trail. I’m tempted to say that the descent made it almost worth it to have peddled (but mostly pushed) our bikes up to the top. But not a bad little jaunt, and the Amitabha Stupa and Peace Park at the western base makes for a nice post-hike relaxation spot.
- Devil’s Bridge. This marquee Sedona attraction required quite a schlep to reach, which itself was fine. It’s just that it would probably be “just another nice bridge” at Natural Bridges National Monument.
- Chapel of the Holy Cross. It’s not the Tiger’s Nest Monastery, but it’s closer than Bhutan.
- Jerome and Haunted Hamburger. Jerome is an interesting town, but neither as charming nor as spooky as advertised. The food at acclaimed Haunted Hamburger didn’t disappoint, but the greasy everything (floors, tables, chairs, windowsills, air) did.
- Summit Resort. Billed as a destination resort, this is more of a four-star motel with some fun features such as a giant Connect Four game. The pools are nice, as is the location on the western outskirts of town.
QUESTIONS FOR READERS
- What else should visitors do in Sedona? Anything to be avoided?
- Do you have a favorite oasis somewhere in the American desert? Or in any desert?
- What was the last place that truly surprised you?
WANDERLOOSED 