Lombard may be the most famous of San Francisco’s streets, but Hayes is my favorite. It’s quieter than the Embarcadero, and its energetic vibe can be fully appreciated over the distance of just a few blocks. Plus, you can visit the Painted Ladies nearby.
Miette. Miette calls itself both a confiserie (confectionery) and a patisserie (pastry shop), but aside from a few cupcakes and some cakes, it’s mostly candy. And the Turkish Delight is as good as anything you’ll find this side of Istanbul.
Smitten Ice Cream. This takes a while because they churn it on the spot, but it’s worth the wait. I tried their seasonal flavor, chamomile with honey from up the road in Chico, with their recommended topping of spicy caramel and toasted almonds. Scrumptious — which, at $8 per scoop, it should be.
La Boulangerie. The almond croissant here is exactly what you would hope for, but don’t wait too late into the day because they are baked in single batches in the morning and tend to run out.
Petit Crenn. I returned to number 609 expecting to eat at Bar Jules, an old favorite for vegetarian small plates, only to find that it had moved on and been replaced by a French bistro. The prix fixe tasting menu caught my eye, but as I was in a bit of a hurry (having used up most of my dinner time finding and eating sweets), they offered me one of the two spots they keep at the bar for à la carte dining. The oyster emulsion in the leeks en vinaigrette was pleasantly subtle. Time spent hanging out above the wood-fired grill (its licks dancing just eagerly enough to add coziness to an otherwise starkly chic ambience) gave the smoked Mount Lassen trout a satisfying and uniform tenderness, while the accompanying rehydrated beets, a first for me, were wonderfully potent. For dessert, the candied kumquat-topped riz au lait (rice pudding) was the second-best I’ve ever had.
Suppenküche. The first sign of authentic — or good imitation — Germanic fare is when the napkins and flatware are ka-lunked down indecorously in a grey, earthen Stiegl Stein right out of Salzburg. I enjoyed the split pea soup with sausage, and found in Erdinger Hefeweisen a new favorite n/a Bier. The gemischter Salat (mixed salad) was perfectly light — not usually a term associated with German cuisine. The brats were not exceptional but got the job done, and the scharfer Senf (sharp mustard) had just enough horseradish to clear the sinuses but not enough to make you weep. Bonus points for service because they let me in three minutes before closing, and were very friendly while they cleaned up for the night around me.
WANDERLOOSED 